Konjan took a deep breath. This was it. He began to paddle, and he could feel the water all around him. He knew that the board was beneath him, and he need not worry. Waves. He sighed, getting out into the deep. He moved straight into the waves, and he could see the white water crashing above him. He didn't sink. A surf board was just like a boat. He kept telling himself that.
He saw the wave coming. He pushed up against the board while bringing one of his feet to stand in the center of the board, before pushing the weight of his body up. He was standing. He had to keep his balance. He transfered the weight from his feet to his arms. He could feel himself rising with the waves. he was doing it! He was really doing it!
The wave passed beneath him and he smiled. Hiro had been right, this was fun.